Author: Edward Thorpe

Antigua

All of the islands look lush and green as we approach from the sea. There is frequently a refreshing early morning rain, sometimes we see it in the distance, the clouds hovering over the tallest point of the island, sometimes we sail through it. This morning it was the latter and when I went up to retrieve early morning coffee the open deck was awash but the sun was shining brightly and a rainbow arced over the western sky as we sailed directly into the rising sun.

Most of the islands show signs of poverty but it is not always visible from the port. Today was different and the derelict boats along the coast were evidence that there is extreme diversity on these small former European outposts.

After breakfast Gail did laundry, probably for the last time before returning home. We walked ashore into a small port-side shopping centre where the locals offered tours repeatedly. Business appeared to be quite brisk as the Ocean Princess was the smallest of the three ships in port. We were accompanied by the Adonia and Europa 2.

We have one port remaining, Virgin Gorda, before our New Years celebration at sea. The small ship experience is our favourite. I doubt we have made any new life-long friends during the last two weeks but everyone is friends with everyone while on the ship.

Virgin Gorda

St Thomas harbour was visible in the early morning light as we sailed toward Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands. The Ocean Princess arrived at her anchorage just before 8:00 AM and her tenders were in the water before she came to a full stop. By 8:30 AM we were aboard the first tender trip to the island.

It was about a 10 minute bus ride from the port to the Baths area parking lot. The ride was punctuated by frequent speed bumps, most intentionally placed. As the 25 passenger open busses arrived at the turn around it was difficult to discern any organization. Some drivers entered forward then backed up in an attempt to turn around while others did the “island” version of a three point turn and backed up to the drop off point thus blocking the busses that were up hill and securing post position for the race back to the port.

The sign indicated a 350 yard trail to the beach. I believe a very long yard stick was used. While it was down hill all the way the thought was always present that what went down would have to come up, eventually. The trail was barely wide enough for down bound travel so it seemed likely to be an interesting return trip.

Once to the beach we were directed to “the caves” with the caveats that: “it would be wet” and “we should carry everything with us through the caves.” Well, after crawling, literally, through the opening it was clear that keeping things dry would be nearly impossible and the trail ahead was more suitable for mountain goats than for humans. Many turned back to the first beach creating additional problems involving 2-way travel through 1-way tunnels.

Gail and many others settled onto what was a very pleasant beach with lots of shade while the braver (more adventurous, dumber—you choose) went back into the caves. After what seemed like a very long time involving climbing up rock faces, going up and down stairs (of sorts), scrambling through narrow crevasses, wading through tidal ponds, etc., etc. we emerged onto a forest trail which gradually widened onto a spectacular beach.

Some folk re-entered the caves for the return trip. I have no idea how they managed. There was barely sufficient room for one way travel. I truly doubt they made any friends trying to travel against the flow. I opted for the trail up to the parking lot from which we started as did several others. It was a relatively easy climb and traffic was very light. After reaching the parking lot I descended to the first beach by the same trail we had all walked earlier.

Once back on the beach it was easy to locate Gail and many others from the ship. We spent some time in the water and relaxing on the beach before making the climb back to the parking lot and the bar where we claimed our complimentary rum punch before returning to the port.

The trip back by tender was quite rough. As the tender came along side the platform it was bobbing up and down at least a metre. Getting from our seats to the exit was challenging and we saw one woman take what we regarded as a serious fall. She was assisted to her feet and exited the tender but declined to be seen by the medical staff. Gail and I hope she will not regret her decision. We managed a safe exit from the tender.

After a light lunch we began to pack up some things we would not need for the next two sea days. It is so much easier to do packing while the ship is in port even if it is at anchor.

It does not appear that New Years celebrations will be quite as elaborate as we have seen on other ships. There will definitely be plenty of bubbly around. We will not be buying any champaign as we have a bottle that we won earlier in the cruise. On January 1 we will finish packing and the end will truly be upon us and a winter reality awaits.